![]() I just copied the 12 volt motor system and made changes to it for the 220 volt mill that is here at the house all the time. It can increase production by 25-40% when working by yourself. I received the second one that they had made. They finished it and sold the first one to a local sawmiller. Stephen Cook was working on the power feed system when I had the accident. I too had a 20 hp gas mill, and now have upgraded to a 28 hp FI. I needed to do this because of an accident I was involved in 3 years ago at my old job, not a sawmill accident. I have upgraded both my manual mills to power feed, and power up and down. But for feed and return, I would use a dead-man type switch or control.Ĭontact Cooks Saw and Machine. Stepping motors would be good for height adjustments once you manually set the zero. A sprocket and a chain has been done before too (use the chain like a rack gear fixed at each end). You could also go with a cable and drum set up for the feed/return system. I would steer you towards electric because it is fairly simple, clean, low maintenance, and what I know a little about. I don't think that you want to increase the work load on your engine, although slight modifications to the charging system might work out, and in theory the saw would not be under load in the return or adjustment stages. ![]() I would steer away from the saw as a power source, though. Simple electric stepping motors and screw drives. Hopefully this will happen within a few years. If I can turn 1 week of sawing into a day or two, that leaves me with time to deal with other business. I can spend a thousand or so in parts to do this, but the longer term plan is to buy a double cut mill with the money earned off this one. Plus the knowledge I am gaining by researching, is knowledge I will have for life, making it invaluable. A week or so of down time isn't going to hurt. If I was 50 I don’t believe I could run a manual mill 9+ hours every day 7 days a week the way I do now. My business (a partnership with a logger) pulls in more money than both my parents do in middle class. The time you are going to lose sawing while you are trying to modify the 1220 will quickly offset the money you have to spend for a more advanced mill. I would sell the 1220 and purchase a slightly used hydraulic mill. I would not try to engineer and fabricate what has already been done by the saw manufacturers. I am 50 years old and can relate to your situation. I too have a 1220 purchased for personal use and possibly a small income when I retire in a few years. I am looking into books on hydraulics, and where to find information on dealing with ratios, motors, speeds, pulley sizes… Has anybody ever done this conversion? I just ordered Grainger and Enco catalogs and I have a very cheap local steel source, so I’m open to supplies. What is possible simply using my mill’s battery? The mill is stationary, in a well ventilated barn, right next to an 80 gallon compressor. I am open minded to hydraulics, electric/gas motors, pneumatics, hydraulic over pneumatics, or anything else possible - just not 220 or 3 phase. I would like to have different speed settings for feed rate and a very fast return. I need to motorize the mill’s forward/reverse and up/down. ![]() Since I started sawing full time, I have never looked back! I worked in cabinet shops for years just to be around wood and was miserable. Since them I have changed from sawing for my personal furniture work, to sawing full time working with a logger. I bought the mill two years ago because of its rigid frame, and I felt it was the best bang for the buck for my needs at the time. ![]() I have a manual Timberking 1220 with a 20 hp engine.
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